How to Grow Peaches by the Patio

If you want to cultivate fruit trees in a small yard, you have to think big and grow small.

The main reason gardeners give for not growing fruit trees in their yard is lack of space. Here are some cool tips for growing an orchard in your backyard, even if you don't have much room.

Modern fruit trees are usually grown on vigorous root stalks, so even dwarf and semi-dwarf trees often grow much faster and larger than gardeners expect. "The primary concern for gardeners with smaller lots should be to maintain the size of the tree for easier maintenance and earlier harvest," says fruit-growing expert Ed Laivo.

So just how big should a backyard fruit tree be? Laivo answers by putting his hands above his head. "If the tree is taller than your hands," he says, "it's too big. If it's the same height, it's just right." To really size up a tree, though, you have to look at its framework. "The trunk of the tree begins here," Laivo explains. "And the primary scaffolding of the tree is the primary limb that comes off of the trunk." Laivo recommends keeping the trunk knee-high. The reason for this is simple: the trunk houses the primary limbs, which house the secondary limbs, which bear fruit on most trees. The lower the limbs, the easier it is to pick the fruit. A smaller tree equals a smaller yield, and if you're feeding a family rather than an army, the yield produced should be ample. A 3- or4-foot tree such as the Santa Rosa plum will produce 150 to 300 pieces of fruit.

Cutting established trees down to size requires some pretty major pruning over several years. If you are unsure of the procedure, contact your local nursery or cooperative extension agent. If you're planting new fruit trees, why not try high-density planting? Planting several trees close together provides a bigger variety, extended season and easier maintenance.

High-density planting offers many benefits - that is, if the trees are kept small. Never allow any variety to dominate at one time; all trees have to grow at the same rate. If one tree is growing faster than the others, cut it back. By pruning now, the tree will have more secondary limbs next year as well as a bushier shape. If you plant bare-root trees, Laivo suggests cutting them off knee-high for low branching, which also creates stronger trees that mature earlier than tall trees.

Laivo also recommends high-density mulching. He layers wood-chip mulch several inches high around peach trees planted four to a large hole. The mulch nearly covers the entire trunk, which allows for less frequent irrigation because the mulch holds the moisture in the soil. "In this case, having the mulch right up against the tree doesn't matter because air penetration to the crown is just fine," Laivo says. A nice deep layer of mulch keeps the roots cool.

Remember that most fruit trees need at least eight hours of sunlight a day to develop sweet fruit, but adequate moisture is also important. If you cut back on the amount of water toward the end of the growing season, it stresses the tree, which increases the sugar content in the fruit.

How to Plant and Grow Persimmons

Experts pick their best tips on how to achieve persimmon perfection.

Persimmons, if unripe, are notorious pucker-producers. When ripe, however, they're delicious. "There are so many varieties of persimmons, including Japanese and American varieties, light-colored flesh, dark-colored flesh, firm and soft," says fruit expert Ed Laivo.

Persimmons don't ship well commercially, so the selection at your local supermarket is likely to be limited. So what's a persimmon pursuer to do? Plant your own tree. Odds are there's a variety that will grow well in your neck of the woods. For example, the American persimmon always has to be used soft and is usually grown in the Midwest or the colder regions of the east coast. The Japanese varieties are all adapted to the milder coastal climates of the United States.

However, there are a few reasons these beautiful trees aren't growing in everyone's yard. According to Laivo, persimmon trees are a little more expensive than your average fruit tree because the propagation is expensive. Not only is the tree hard to bud, but the buds don't always take, and sometimes less than 60 percent of the trees survive the digging. So growers like Laivo take on the challenge of propagating persimmon trees, and the rest of us can buy young, healthy, grafted trees at the nursery. Sure you'll pay a little more, but the investment offers returns in other ways.

"Persimmon trees are really easy to take care of," Laivo says. "They're actually very adaptable to a wide range of soils, they're disease- and pest-free, and basically drought tolerant after established." Depending on your climate, persimmon trees can be planted in early spring or winter.

How to Plant Your Persimmon Tree

Persimmons are great trees for the home gardener, and they're easy to plant. First, dig a hole wider than it is deep. Then, choose a plant with nicely developed roots. The crown should sit a tad above the soil line to accommodate settling. Laivo recommends backfilling the soil to create a pyramid in the center of the hole. Set the tree on top, and add enough dirt to fill the hole.

Laivo doesn't amend the soil because the roots need to adapt to the nutrients that will be available for the next 100-plus years. Instead, he uses other protective measures like mulch. Mulch helps to cut down on evaporation and also keeps the roots cooler in the summertime. Laivo recommends high-density planting or several trees planted in one hole in smaller yards to provide lots of fruit, great pollination and easy harvesting all in one compact area.

Caring for Your Tree

Persimmons are also very easy to maintain, as far as pruning is concerned. Simply prune limbs that are crossing and dangling. Laivo suggests structural cuts or cutting branches back to about the third bud inside the tree. Structural cuts create strong branches to support lots of fruit. Laivo also prunes for size control and doesn't let his trees grow any taller than the height his hands can reach over his head. Anything above that is too hard to harvest without a ladder. Just remember the "kiss" method: keep it short and simple. Moderate pruning can also help reduce the tree's tendency to be alternate bearing or fruiting every other year.

Ready to Eat

So when can you bite into a nice ripe persimmon? While most fruit needs warm weather to ripen, persimmons are ready during the fall. Persimmons are a fall crop primarily ripening in September all the way to the beginning of the next year. There are two varieties of persimmons. The astringent fruit is eaten when it has become jelly-soft.

The nonastringent fruit, which is gaining in popularity, is eaten while still firm. According to Laivo, the American palette likes firm fruit, and so the Fuyu persimmon is a very common choice. Persimmons are a great source of vitamins A and C as well as of potassium and fiber.

Tip: To ripen American astringent persimmons in a jiffy, place the fruit in the freezer overnight. Remove the fruit from the freezer and allow the cold-ripened fruit to thaw.

How to Plant a Tree in Your Garden

When to Start: Late autumn
At Its Best: All year round
Time to Complete: 2 hours

Materials Needed:

• tree
• spade
• fork
• cane

• stake
• tree tie
• mulch
• gardening gloves

Prepare the Ground

Dig a circular hole twice the width and the same depth as the root ball; digging the hole deeper than the root ball may cause the tree to sink once planted. Instead, puncture the base and sides with a garden fork to encourage the roots to penetrate.

Check Planting Depth

Most trees are planted with the top of their root ball slightly above the soil surface, which helps them to establish a strong root system and avoid drainage issues. Place the tree in the hole, lay the shovel handle across the top of the root ball to check the level, and add or remove soil as required.

Tease Out Roots

Lift the tree from the hole and use your fingers to gently tease the outer roots away from the root ball. This will encourage them to root into the surrounding soil, helping the tree establish, and is particularly important if the tree is root-bound.

Plant the Tree

Hold the tree in the hole and turn it until its best side is facing in the right direction. Then fill around the root ball with the excavated soil. Do this in three stages; adding soil and gently firming it down with your foot each time. Make sure there are no air pockets between the roots.

Gently Firm In

Make sure the root ball is just above the soil surface. As a guide, look for the "nursery line," where the trunk darkens at the base, showing the level the tree was grown at in the nursery. This must not be buried. Then add a thin layer of soil over the root ball so that no roots are exposed.

Attach Tree to Wooden Stake

Choose a stake that will reach a third of the way up the trunk. Use a mallet to hammer it into the ground at an angle of about 45 degrees with the top facing the prevailing wind. Attach a tree tie at the point where tree and stake meet, using a spacer to prevent them rubbing together.

Aftercare

Water the tree well and then apply a thick mulch, such as composted bark chippings, to suppress competing weeds and seal in moisture. Keep it clear of the stem. Make sure the tree receives water regularly for two years, and check and loosen ties frequently. The ties can be removed after two or three years when the tree has become fully established.

How to Plant and Cultivate Nut Trees

Learn some helpful tips on growing almonds, chestnuts, pecans and hazelnuts.

Ed Laivo knows and loves nut trees. He has lots of favorites that are perfectly suited to home gardens big and small.

"If you're in a cold climate, a Carpathian variety would be your best choice," Ed says. If you're in a warm climate, a warm-season variety — even a Carpathian — will work well.

Although his orchard is a good example of a high-density planting of walnuts (a growing technique that uses less space to grow more), in a home setting, walnuts need a large yard to grow and yield optimally. But unlike many nut trees, it doesn't need two to tango. Most walnuts are self-fruiting.

One word of caution: Don't plan on planting anything near or under them. Most plants don't grow well under them. For one thing, they block light. For another, walnut roots and the husks of the nuts secret a chemical called juglone that prohibits plant growth.

Almond Tree

Almond trees need well-drained soil. New rootstock varieties help with vigor and disease resistance, but the best defense against leaf diseases that almonds are susceptible to is a dry spring.

And one of the pertinent facts about almond trees for people with smaller yards: Many varieties reach only 8 to 12 feet tall, so they're great for someone who doesn't have a lot of space. Two particularly small varieties are the 'All-in-One' almond and 'Garden Prince' almond.

Chestnut Tree

Choose a variety that's disease resistant. Many trees were wiped out some 50 years ago by chestnut blight, but today's hybrids combine the best of American, Chinese and European trees.

"Chestnuts are monoecious," Ed says. "That means the male and female flower on the same tree, but unfortunately the male and the female don't get along and consequently the male will flower too soon before the female is ready for pollen."

Premature pollen spillage can be rectified by planting an appropriate pollinating variety nearby. In this case, male 'Nevada' flowers pollinate female 'Collosal' flowers at just the right time.

Chestnut trees are adaptable to all kinds of soil, but the one thing they need is cold winter weather.

A note of caution when roasting them over an open fire: Cut through the shell with a knife to allow for the gases that collect inside to escape in the roasting process. Otherwise, they'll explode.

Hazelnut Tree

One tough nut to crack is the filbert, also known as the hazelnut. As specimens or container plants go, though, these trees can be quite beautiful.

"Filberts have a number of different landscape varieties that look very good," Ed says. "One is a red-leafed filbert, which comes out in the spring with beautiful red foliage."

Another great option is a filbert known as Henry Lauder's walking stick (Corylus avellana 'Contorta'). Its true value comes in the winter, when the deciduous shrub loses its foliage and reveals its contorted branches.

Pecan Tree

The pecan is a big tree (up to 70 feet tall) but a beautiful one.

If you plant one that needs a pollenizer but don't provide the pollenizer, you'll get no nuts. On the other hand, plant two or more pecans and you get a harvest. Pecans ripen on the tree, and when it's time, the skin opens, releasing the nut.

"When the nut falls to the ground, just allow the nut to dry on the ground and it'll be ready to go."

Many pecan varieties are adapted to colder climates throughout the U.S., so talk to your local agriculture extension agent to find out what will work best for your region.

Some nut trees in some areas can be a lot of work, advises Ed, so be sure you have the space and the desire to maintain the tree before you bring one home.