The
actual spot you choose for your garden is not half as important as what you do
with it. Choosing an area in the fall saves you time and money in the spring;
when you prepare your garden soil in the fall, you can add nutrients in less
costly ways. For instance, in the fall you can add matured compost with animal
elements — like fish and dried horse or cow manure — on top of your garden
area. This gives them time to break down sufficiently before spring tilling. At
the same time, you can mulch fall leaves into the garden to add carbon and
trace minerals to balance all the nitrogen.
All
you need is a place that is relatively flat. It can’t be constantly shaded or
swampy for long periods of time. The flat and swampy problems can usually be
fixed with hard work, but the area must have full sun for most, if not all, of
the day. Planting in long, narrow, rectangular beds from east to west usually
gives you the best sun exposure for the longest periods of the day. This shape
also lets you tend your beds without stepping on the soil.
Grass,
weeds and good soil drainage can be handled by enclosing your garden bed areas
with untreated wood, or bricks and stones. Place cardboard or newspaper inside
the garden area to kill the grass several weeks before you trench or fall till,
and then put your dried manures and fall leaves over your prepared garden. This
all breaks down by spring and can then be easily tilled or hoed for planting.
For
landscaping and practical concerns, if you put plastic down in between your bed
areas (or around the outside of a single garden area) and cover it with straw
or a large coarsely chopped mulch, grass will have less opportunity to
interfere with your planting areas. This also will make it easier to walk
around the area to weed after it rains, and it looks good, too.
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